The crucifix – Christianity’s most important symbol – is the leading motif of this year’s Cracovia Sacra Night on 14 and 15 August. It gains an additional spiritual dimension with three important anniversaries marking Kraków’s historic events.

“Every year, the Cracovia Sacra Night reminds us of the close ties between Kraków’s material heritage and its unique spiritual traditions. As usual, our programme includes concerts, thematic exhibitions and guided tours. This year, we are turning our attention to the Cistercian Abbey, the Basilica of St Mary and the Pauline Basilica ‘On the Rock’, all celebrating major anniversaries this year. We are also supporting Nowa Huta with its Cistercian Abbey and part of Krzesławice in their bid to be awarded the official status of a historical monument. These activities form an important part of the motto behind the entire Kraków Nights cycle: we are proud to promote the most important, valuable and unique elements of Kraków’s history,” says Katarzyna Olesiak, director of the Department of Culture and National Heritage at the Kraków City Office.

Cistercians and Nowa Huta

Although the Cistercian Abbey in Mogiła lies within present-day Kraków city limits, no-one would have imagined such a thing when it was first built. Founded by the Bishop of Kraków Iwo Odrowąż in 1222 (35 years before Kraków was awarded its city charter!), it remained outside the city boundaries for many centuries, all the way until 1951. It is the longest-running monastery in Poland.

As the abbey keeps relics of the tree of the Holy Cross, it is a popular pilgrimage destination. This is why 14 September – the day in the 4th century when St Helena found the cross Jesus died on – is one of the most important dates for Cracovian Cistercians. Marking the 800th anniversary of the abbey at Mogiła, the celebrations of the Feast of the Cross are held as a week-long indulgence (13–21 September). It starts with a holy mass with a procession of the relics of the Holy Cross, and on 18 September Bishop Kazimierz Nycz will lead a pontifical mass. The abbey museum is open between 10am and 8pm throughout the indulgence.

When we talk about the crucifix in the context of Nowa Huta (which absorbed the former village of Mogiła in the 1950s), we should also recall a more recent event: the defence of the Nowa Huta Cross in 1960. It was erected on the proposed site of a new church. Although the communist authorities initially issued a permit for the building work, they withdrew it and decided to go as far as removing the cross to ensure that Nowa Huta remained a modern, communist city without places of worship. The decision was followed by widespread protest and riots of the Nowa Huta residents in defence of the cross and the future church. The conflict was finally defused by Karol Wojtyła, Kraków’s bishop at the time. His efforts were successful: many years later, in 1977, he consecrated the first place of worship in Nowa Huta – the church in Bieńczyce. Today, Nowa Huta is no longer an emblem of communism as desired by the regime; instead, it symbolises the coming together of old times and the present day. The secular architecture, controversial when it was built and now considered unique, and vast metallurgy complex were erected near the ancient Cistercian Abbey, followed by many other churches. Today, Kraków is working on plans to list Nowa Huta with its Mogiła abbey and parts of Krzesławice as a historical monument.

The people’s parish

The parish of St Mary was created in the very heart of Kraków around the same time as the arrival of the Cistercians. Since sources aren’t certain as to the exact year, the anniversary celebrations will stretch between 2022 and 2026.

“We are delighted that the 800th anniversary of the parish of St Mary coincides with the time when we are able to unveil the spectacular altarpiece by Veit Stoss after a six-year period of restoration, as well as the renovated instruments in the church, including the main organ. These artworks continue to serve our society,” says Dr. Dariusz Raś, Archpriest of the Basilica.

The origins of the parish are linked with the arrival of the Dominican order, brought to Kraków by Bishop Iwo Odrowąż. The then parish was moved from the Church of the Holy Trinity to the Basilica of St Mary. The construction of the building towering over the Main Market Square spanned around 200 years; some notable events included the destruction of the original building during a Tatar invasion, the consecration of the new church in 1320, the construction of the imposing chancel in the mid-14th century funded by the local merchant Mikołaj Wierzynek, and the completion of the final, familiar silhouette half a century later.

“Over the first three centuries (13–15th c.), it grew to became the main place of worship in the city and a local parish church whose fate has been tied inseparably with the fate of the local community and city authorities since the Middle Ages. Just as Wawel Cathedral was seen as the church of the royal family, bishops and local dignitaries, belonging directly to the castle, the Basilica of St Mary was chiefly regarded as the church belonging to the people,” writes Elżbieta Piwowarczyk in her History of the Basilica of St Mary (13–16th c.). The church has maintained this unique status until today.

The long anniversary celebrations were launched on 14 May with a ceremonial blessing of the main organ and an inaugural concert by the basilica’s organists. The instrument has been undergoing major renovation works since 2019, since it required a thorough remodelling. The new organ has 62 pipes including eight originating from historic instruments. Innovations include the option to record performances and replay them at any time, and an option making it possible to play the organ in the chancel at the same time. Because it’s worth noting that the church has an extensive instrumentarium including the main organ, the choir organ in the chancel and the small organ in the southern nave.

Sanctuary by Wawel

The final anniversary marks the arrival of the Pauline Order to Kraków, therefore it takes us to the Basilica ‘On the Rock’. In 1472, 550 years ago, the first Pauline Fathers were brought to our city by the historian and chronicler Jan Długosz; he funded their monastery and later the renovation of the church dating back to the days of King Casimir the Great. The choice of location was no accident – the church is traditionally linked with the martyrdom of St Stanislaus of Szczepanów, murdered in 1079 by King Bolesław the Brave or on his orders. The popular cult of Poland’s patron is largely attributed to Długosz, following his chronicle of St Stanislaus (Vita S. Stanislai) written between 1460 and 1465. He first encountered the Pauline Order when Cardinal Zbigniew Oleśnicki was funding their monastery in Pińczów and during several visit to the Jasna Góra sanctuary.

The author of the acclaimed Annals or Chronicles of the Famous Kingdom of Poland originally wanted to bring the Pauline Order to Kraków much earlier; however, he faced opposition from the local rector who had no intention of foregoing the tidy profits from the pilgrims. Things finally went Długosz’s way when he became a tutor to the sons of King Casimir IV Jagiellon. Noting the fact in the 12th book of the Annals, the chronicler wrote that the foundation of the monastery meant that “the place, sanctified by the great martyr St Stanislaus, neglected until now, will bear abundant and salutary fruit to the Lord through worship sung at all hours of day and night, through the holiness and eager care of the Fathers”. Under the care of the Pauline Order, the Church ‘On the Rock’ fast developed as an important pilgrimage site. Since the 19th century, it has been Poland’s second most important (after Wawel Cathedral) national necropolis, holding among the others the remains of Jan Długosz himself, Wincenty Pol, Józef Ignacy Kraszewski, Teofil Lenartowicz, Adam Asnyk, Stanisław Wyspiański, Jacek Malczewski, Karol Szymanowski, Ludwik Solski and Czesław Miłosz.

The celebrations marking the 550th anniversary of the presence of the Pauline Order were launched on 8 May, when the annual procession of St Stanislaus from Wawel to the Church ‘On the Rock’ was followed by a field mass at the Altar of the Three Millennia. Attendees who remember the first pilgrimage to Poland by Pope John Paul II in 1979 recalled his meeting with students on the 900th anniversary of the martyrdom of St Stanislaus.

Anniversary celebrations continue throughout the summer and culminate on 29 September with an indulgence dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. The construction of a Pauline Order Cultural Heritage Centre is a longer-term project as part of the commemorations of the anniversary.

***

The three anniversaries comprising this year’s Cracovia Sacra Night are a profound spiritual experience and an opportunity to explore the city’s fascinating past; they are also a chance to visit three unique basilicas which have served as havens of spirituality and tradition to Cracovians for centuries, as well as bearing witness to changes through the ages. They are captivating guides to Kraków’s history from the Middle Ages to the present day.

Marek Mikos
Kraków Culture