As dawn broke and thousands of Nowa Hutians set off for work at the steelworks, Włodek the Cat felt a flake of soot settling gently on his nose. Włodek wrinkled his nose. (…) He mustered up all his strength and trotted off as fast as his little kitty paws would carry him.

We join Włodek the Cat and set out on a brisk walk to explore Nowa Huta – Kraków’s youngest district. But that’s only partially true! People have been living here since prehistoric times: the oldest human artefacts discovered by archaeologists date back a whopping twenty-five thousand years, and the earliest tomb of a local woman is almost five thousand years old. The area was once populated by Celts and by mammoth hunters, and, in the centuries that followed, farmers. The rich soil was perfect for growing cereals, and the region soon filled with settlements and villages. After the Second World War, during the hope-filled period of rebuilding the country from the ravages of war, the communist authorities decided to construct a vast metallurgy plant named after Vladimir Lenin on the outskirts of Kraków. A brand new city was soon built to house the workers. The new town was called Nowa Huta, and it was designed as an utopian ideal city. Did you know that, when viewed from above, Nowa Huta is the shape of a fan?

Today, Nowa Huta forms a part of the city of Kraków, but its past makes it stand out from the other districts. To get a better feel for the place, we start our tour from the Administrative Centre which serves as the main gateway to the steelworks. Modelled on Renaissance architecture, the building is sometimes known as Nowa Huta’s Vatican or Doge’s Palace.

Beyond the administrative building stretches out Poland’s largest factory, covering an area of almost ten square kilometres! The plant produces steel used in manufacturing parts such as car panels. Did you know that the byproduct of steel production, known as slag, has been used as a base under the paving stones of the Main Market Square?

The Administrative Centre conceals an underground secret: nuclear bunkers  built during the Cold War. They are open to the public (booking required).

We get off at the next stop and head to the Nowa Huta Reservoir, a favourite leisure spot for local residents. The small island in the middle, known as the Monkey Grove, is a haven for several species of plants and animals. The area around the reservoir holds a playground nearby.

After a break by the Nowa Huta Reservoir, let’s walk or take a tram down Solidarności Avenue towards Centralny (Central) Square – the heart of the district. It is encircled by estates named Centrum (Centres) A, B, C, D and E. A town hall was supposed to be erected on the north side of the square, but the plans were never carried out. The Nowa Huta Cultural Centre stands on the opposite side. It hosts a wide range of events for visitors of all ages, including concerts, spectacles, exhibitions, workshops and festivals.

The centre is adjacent to a playground and avenues dotted with toadstool sculptures, and an ice skating rink in winter. The Nowa Huta Meadows stretch beyond, a beautiful habitat of a wide range of plants and animals.

We head north from Centralny Square along the Róż Avenue. Stylowa Restaurant, which banished poor hungry Włodek, holds some of the most beautiful memories of the People’s Republic. The huge statue of Vladimir Lenin was removed from the square in 1989. The area was once famous for its rose bushes, planted down the length of the entire avenue. Years of neglect turned the boulevard sad and grey, but local residents are trying to revive the tradition of planting and maintaining roses.

Weary from chasing neon signs and symbols of the past, let’s stop for a well-earned refreshment at one of the popular local ice cream parlours.

We continue along Róż Avenue, past Ratuszowy Park named after the town hall that never was, and past Zgody, Słoneczne, Urocze, Zielone and Górali estates. Have you noticed that the buildings get lower as we get further from Centralny Square? This was a deliberate decision by Nowa Huta’s designers. The district still captivates with its consistent, harmonious architecture. Each housing estate was created as a separate quarter with houses, schools, kindergartens, playgrounds and green spaces – their sheer number has earned Nowa Huta the nickname of a garden city. Take a look at the gates at the entrance to each estate, designed to resemble ancient triumphal arches. Notice how narrow they are? The story goes that this is so that a tank can’t fit through them! If you look hard enough, you’ll spot little huts on tops of some of the buildings, built for snipers… *